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	<title>Pacific Print Works</title>
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	<link>http://pacificprintworks.com</link>
	<description>Wholesale large format printing and services for the printing trade.</description>
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		<title>Fine Art</title>
		<link>http://pacificprintworks.com/fine-art-reproduction/fine-art/</link>
		<comments>http://pacificprintworks.com/fine-art-reproduction/fine-art/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 05 May 2010 03:22:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Morgan Cox</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fine Art Reproduction]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pacificprintworks.com/?p=464</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p class="wp-caption-text">HP 3200z Fine Art Printer</p>
<p>Fine art reproduction that&#8217;s done with inkjet printers is often called giclee printing. I find it a bit amusing that our industry acts as if this defines some standard or specification. In fact it is purely a marketing term that implies some common characteristics.</p>

archival, non fading color in indoor conditions
use of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_465" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 290px"><a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/z3200_pic.jpg" rel="lightbox[464]" title="HP 3200z Fine Art Printer"><img class="size-full wp-image-465" title="HP 3200z Fine Art Printer" src="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/z3200_pic.jpg" alt="HP 3200z Fine Art Printer" width="280" height="185" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">HP 3200z Fine Art Printer</p></div>
<p>Fine art reproduction that&#8217;s done with inkjet printers is often called giclee printing. I find it a bit amusing that our industry acts as if this defines some standard or specification. In fact it is purely a marketing term that implies some common characteristics.</p>
<ul>
<li>archival, non fading color in indoor conditions</li>
<li>use of art type materials like canvas, rag papers, or watercolor and photo papers</li>
<li>typically framed or stretched around wooden &#8220;stretcher bars&#8221;</li>
</ul>
<p>We have a wide variety of materials to use in this printer and many have been tested by the <a href="http://www.wilhelm-research.com/hp/Z3200.html">Wilhelm Institute</a>. We offer stretching service to help finish the print.</p>
<p>Each print is meticulously cared for from loading the material, to spraying multiple coats of protective coatings. The color management is crafted for each individual material to make sure you get the best results possible.</p>
<p>For photographic output, we can use archival photo papers that rival Lightjet and Lambda output. Depending on paper choice, they can be archival into the hundreds of years &#8211; even without laminate.</p>
<p>To take full advantage of this print system, convert your scans or digital captures into a large gamut RGB Working Space like Adobe RGB or ProPhoto RGB. Beware of taking digital images through the RAW filter. It is very powerful and can be used for good or evil. If you&#8217;re trying to gain experience in image editing with the RAW filter, be sure to save the original to allow you to experiment and make mistakes. Also, don&#8217;t get focused in on one or two small areas or details. I often see images destroyed with the RAW filter in the interest of something simple like better contrast or lightness. <a href="http://www.adobe.com/designcenter/photoshop/articles/lrvid4008_ps.html">Here</a> is one of many tutorials and online help for using the RAW filter.</p>
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		<title>Retractable Banner Stands</title>
		<link>http://pacificprintworks.com/displays-and-stands/retractable-banner-stands/</link>
		<comments>http://pacificprintworks.com/displays-and-stands/retractable-banner-stands/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Apr 2010 04:26:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Morgan Cox</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Displays and Stands]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pacificprintworks.com/?p=441</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Retractable stands come in all shapes, sizes, and quality levels. There are dirt cheap, flimsy stands that barely hold together to high end, expensive, slick stands that are over-built and over-priced. The trick is to find the proper balance. After using a half dozen different sources, we&#8217;ve found that balance.</p>
<p>Width sizes for indoor stands include 24&#8243;, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Retractable stands come in all shapes, sizes, and quality levels. There are dirt cheap, flimsy stands that barely hold together to high end, expensive, slick stands that are over-built and over-priced. The trick is to find the proper balance. After using a half dozen different sources, we&#8217;ve found that balance.</p>
<p>Width sizes for indoor stands include 24&#8243;, 36&#8243;, 48&#8243;, 60&#8243;. The graphics can be anywhere from 69&#8243; to 92&#8243; high. We include a travel bag with each stand and can ship to anywhere in the US so you don&#8217;t have to travel with your new stand.</p>
<p>These stands are as simple as it gets to setup and break down. The indoor stands telescoping pole hooks into the top bar and fits into the base easily.</p>
<p>The outdoor stands are intentionally small to keep the windage to a minimum and keep them on their feet.</p>
<div id="attachment_234" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/retractable-stand_econo-closeup.jpg" rel="lightbox[441]" title="Closeup of Econo retractable banner stand"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-234 " title="Closeup of Econo retractable banner stand" src="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/retractable-stand_econo-closeup-150x150.jpg" alt="Closeup of Econo retractable banner stand" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Econo retractable banner stand. Graphic size: 33&quot;W x 80&quot;H</p></div>
<div id="attachment_232" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/retractable-stand_clasp.jpg" rel="lightbox[441]" title="Retractable stand extention pole"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-232 " title="Retractable stand extention pole" src="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/retractable-stand_clasp-150x150.jpg" alt="Retractable stand extention pole" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Retractable stand extention pole (not available for Econo stand)</p></div>
<div id="attachment_230" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/retractable-1.jpg" rel="lightbox[441]" title="Retractable banner stand"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-230 " title="Retractable banner stand" src="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/retractable-1-150x150.jpg" alt="Retractable banner stand" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Retractable banner stand made from Tradeshow Film and textured matte laminate.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_231" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/retractable-2.jpg" rel="lightbox[441]" title="Retractable banner stand"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-231" title="Retractable banner stand" src="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/retractable-2-150x150.jpg" alt="Retractable banner stand" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Retractable banner stand made from SuperSmooth banner material.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_455" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/stand_outdoor-snap-frame-full.jpg" rel="lightbox[441]" title="Outdoor water base snap frame"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-455" title="Outdoor water base snap frame" src="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/stand_outdoor-snap-frame-full-150x150.jpg" alt="Outdoor water base snap frame" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Water base snap frame. Graphic size: 23.5&quot;W x 32.5&quot;H, 22.5&quot;W x 32.25&quot;H viewable</p></div>
<div id="attachment_456" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/stand_outdoor-snap-frame.jpg" rel="lightbox[441]" title="Outdoor water base snap frame closeup"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-456" title="Outdoor water base snap frame closeup" src="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/stand_outdoor-snap-frame-150x97.jpg" alt="Outdoor water base snap frame closeup" width="150" height="97" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Outdoor water base snap frame closeup</p></div>
<div id="attachment_458" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/stand_outdoor-zephyr-single.jpg" rel="lightbox[441]" title="Outdoor water base banner stand - Zephyr"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-458" title="Outdoor water base banner stand - Zephyr" src="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/stand_outdoor-zephyr-single-150x150.jpg" alt="Outdoor water base banner stand - Zephyr" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Zephyr outdoor banner stand. Graphic sizes: 24&quot; to 36&quot; width, 60&quot; to 72&quot; heights.</p></div>
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		<title>A Frame Sandwich stands</title>
		<link>http://pacificprintworks.com/displays-and-stands/a-frame-sandwich-stands/</link>
		<comments>http://pacificprintworks.com/displays-and-stands/a-frame-sandwich-stands/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 21 Apr 2010 04:47:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Morgan Cox</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Displays and Stands]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pacificprintworks.com/?p=418</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p class="wp-caption-text">A frame sandwich board</p>
<p>Recently we did some reusable A frame sandwich boards that the customer loved. They liked them so much they ordered 3 more in addition to the 10 they originally ordered. These are one example of several that are available in different sizes that all share the ability to easily change out the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_417" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/A-frame-sandwich-boards-3-small.jpg" rel="lightbox[418]" title="A frame sandwich board"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-417" title="A frame sandwich board" src="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/A-frame-sandwich-boards-3-small-150x150.jpg" alt="A frame sandwich board" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A frame sandwich board</p></div>
<p>Recently we did some reusable A frame sandwich boards that the customer loved. They liked them so much they ordered 3 more in addition to the 10 they originally ordered. These are one example of several that are available in different sizes that all share the ability to easily change out the graphics when you&#8217;re ready for a new message.</p>
<p>No tools are needed, the stand is well built from durable plastic, stable, and stackable. The stand in the picture is in the middle of the available sizes. The prints can be done on durable PVC, or inexpensive corrugated plastic. Both solutions will hold up outdoors in the sun and rain.</p>
<p>Setup the artwork as a 22&#8243;w x 28&#8243;h document. Expect 1/2&#8243; at the top and bottom to &#8220;bleed&#8221; into the stand and not be visible.</p>
<div id="attachment_420" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/stand-alum_snap.jpg" rel="lightbox[418]" title="Aluminum snap frame stand"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-420" title="Aluminum snap frame stand" src="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/stand-alum_snap-150x150.jpg" alt="Aluminum snap frame stand" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Aluminum snap frame stand</p></div>
<p>A variation on this stand is an all aluminum option with edges that snap into place to hold the graphic. This stand sits taller and isn&#8217;t quite as stable as the version above. But it is a cleaner, more stylish choice. It works indoors or out, but may be best suited to indoor or low wind locations.</p>
<p>Here is the PDF <a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/stand-AluminumSnapframetemplate.pdf">template</a> for art preparation.</p>
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		<title>Defining Black</title>
		<link>http://pacificprintworks.com/file-preparation-tips/defining-black/</link>
		<comments>http://pacificprintworks.com/file-preparation-tips/defining-black/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Apr 2010 04:57:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Morgan Cox</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[File Preparation Tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pacificprintworks.com/?p=380</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Poor blacks have to be the most common file preparation mistake I see. I don&#8217;t think a day goes by without having to fix how black is defined in the files I see. Even when a &#8220;process&#8221; black has been set, it is often not as dark or as neutral grey as it should be. Defining [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Poor blacks have to be the most common file preparation mistake I see. I don&#8217;t think a day goes by without having to fix how black is defined in the files I see. Even when a &#8220;process&#8221; black has been set, it is often not as dark or as neutral grey as it should be. Defining black in your files, whether they are RGB or CMYK is simple once you understand how the computer (and our print systems) think of black.</p>
<p>The most common mistake is to set black as 100% black in a CMYK file. I know it sounds funny, but 100% black is actually very weak and not nearly as dark as it can be. In RGB files it is simple, set red, green, and blue to all zero and voila! you&#8217;ve got a proper rich black. So, this post will deal with setting black in CMYK files.</p>
<p>To understand how the computer thinks of color, it helps to realize that all digital color, whether it is CMYK , RGB, or Pantone, is referenced to another color space behind the scenes; LAB color space. LAB is modeled after the range of color we as humans are capable of seeing. In the digital process, it is used as a common reference for color so we can make our conversions from RGB to CMYK for example. We also use LAB to move color from one step in the workflow to the next accurately with ICC profiles. The ICC profiles used within design applications to store color are referred to as Working Spaces. The most common CMYK working space in the America is US Web Coated SWOP. Unless you&#8217;ve made special effort to change your working spaces (which I generally don&#8217;t recommend) and you are in the US, you&#8217;re using US Web Coated SWOP.</p>
<p>LAB breaks color into 3 axis, L for lightness, with A and B defining hue and saturation. Since we&#8217;re focusing on black here, lets simplify the discussion to lightness and the knowledge that perfect neutral grey will have a zero A and zero B value.</p>
<div id="attachment_382" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/black_100k.jpg" rel="lightbox[380]" title="Black defined as 100% K"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-382" title="Black defined as 100% K" src="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/black_100k-150x150.jpg" alt="Black defined as 100% K" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Black defined as 100% K</p></div>
<p>We&#8217;ll use Photoshop&#8217;s color picker to see how black translates through CMYK, RGB, and LAB all at the same time. Look at how 100% K translates as a LAB value in the picture. Perfect black in LAB would be L=0, a=0, b=0. Note how L is much higher than zero and the translation to RGB values are all higher than R=0, G=0, and B=0 when black is set as 100% K in CMYK. When black is defined this way, and we do our job of printing the color in your file accurately, you&#8217;ll get a very weak black. Also note how the A value in LAB is not zero. This means the black is not only weak, but it also has a color tint that takes it away from being perfect grey.</p>
<div id="attachment_385" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/black_process.jpg" rel="lightbox[380]" title="Perfect process black"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-385" title="Perfect process black" src="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/black_process-150x150.jpg" alt="Perfect process black" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Perfect process black</p></div>
<p>The common solution is to define a &#8220;rich&#8221; or &#8220;process&#8221; black. This means adding some CMY to the 100% K to make sure you&#8217;re getting loads of ink on there. Sometimes I see overkill mixes like C=100, M=100, Y=100, K=100. Instead of going with some mythological mix that&#8217;s been passed down through designer to designer and from prepress operator to prepress operator, let&#8217;s look at how the computer thinks of a perfectly neutral rich, process black in the next picture. Note how the balance of CMY is not even numbers. Setting black as something like C=50, M=50, Y=50, K=100 will actually give a black that is dark, but not neutral grey. If the printed version of this is dark enough, you may not see the error. But in bright outdoor light, you are likely to see it. Also, if a gradient is made from this non-neutral black, you&#8217;ll get a funky color shift through the gradient.</p>
<h3>Practical Solutions</h3>
<p>When you are selecting black in Photoshop, simply set LAB or RGB to all zeros so you don&#8217;t have to remember the specific CMYK mix that gets the best black. By default, Photoshop will display black accurately on screen. That is to say 100% K will look lighter on screen than a proper rich black. Illustrator is not set this way be default and needs to have its setting changed.</p>
<div id="attachment_393" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/black-ill_prefs.jpg" rel="lightbox[380]" title="Black Preferences in Illustrator"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-393" title="Black Preferences in Illustrator" src="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/black-ill_prefs-150x150.jpg" alt="Black Preferences in Illustrator" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Black Preferences in Illustrator</p></div>
<p>By default, Illustrator is set to show all black on screen as if they are rich blacks, whether they are 100% K or a proper rich black. This is particularly evil since it is very common to set black manually in Illustrator. Change this setting within the Preferences and make sure all your colleagues do the same. Set it to &#8220;Display All Blacks Accurately&#8221; for screen and print/exporting. Be careful not to use the default black in the color pallet since it is simply 100% K. In Illustrator, you can change the color picker to be RGB or CMYK regardless of the file&#8217;s color format. In other words, you can have a CMYK file, but select black in the color picker as R=0, G=0, B=0. Then switch the color picker back to CMYK to see the proper rich black values.</p>
<p>On the print side, we take great care to ensure that our blacks print as dark and as neutral as possible 0n every material we use. Our custom color managed systems automatically take care of any fancy GCR (replacing CMY with extra K) that is needed for each type of material. This is one of the many things we craft into our systems to give you the best possible output day after day.</p>
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		<title>Resolution</title>
		<link>http://pacificprintworks.com/file-preparation-tips/resolution/</link>
		<comments>http://pacificprintworks.com/file-preparation-tips/resolution/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 30 Mar 2010 17:36:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Morgan Cox</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[File Preparation Tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pacificprintworks.com/?p=354</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Digital image resolution and print resolution have nothing in common!
<p>There, I said it &#8211; whew. I feel better now, thanks.</p>
<p>It seems like this has to be one of the most misunderstood topics for large format printing. I just had a phone call from a new customer that asked what resolution I use when printing. Since I [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h3>Digital image resolution and print resolution have nothing in common!</h3>
<p>There, I said it &#8211; whew. I feel better now, thanks.</p>
<p>It seems like this has to be one of the most misunderstood topics for large format printing. I just had a phone call from a new customer that asked what resolution I use when printing. Since I already knew what machine and material I&#8217;d use for his vehicle wraps, the answer was 720 dots per inch (dpi). But I had to say, &#8220;why do you ask&#8221;&#8230;.because I thought I already knew the answer and hoped to save him some grief from having to struggle with too large of a file size. He said &#8220;I need to know if my customer&#8217;s file has enough resolution for your printer&#8221;. Just as I suspected.</p>
<p>Many designers are taught that an image&#8217;s resolution in pixels per inch (ppi) is a function of the printing resolution. This is driven by the offset printing world where the rule of thumb has been to multiply the printing resolution by 2 to get the optimal resolution for digital images. It used to be that common offset print resolution was 150 lines per inch. So 150 x 2 = 300 ppi in the digital image. Because of differences in the printing technology between inkjet and offset, together with the differences in how the respective images are viewed, this rule does not apply in digital inkjet printing.</p>
<div id="attachment_358" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/res-pixels.gif" rel="lightbox[354]" title="pixels"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-358" title="pixels" src="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/res-pixels-150x150.gif" alt="pixels" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">text made from pixels</p></div>
<p>First let&#8217;s look at the 2 totally separate types of resolution we&#8217;re talking about here. One is pixels per inch. Odds are you&#8217;ve seen an image that didn&#8217;t have enough pixels, it looks &#8220;jaggy&#8221; as the pixels become large enough to be noticeable. We certainly do need enough pixels to avoid this jaggy look and have nice, sharp images. But pixels are not everything, as we&#8217;ll see in a moment. For now, isolate that we are talking about the number of pixels in a digital image&#8230;.NOT how it will print.</p>
<p>Print resolution is usually expressed in dots per inch (dpi). Obviously, the more dots per inch, the better. But that&#8217;s not the only thing that matters. There are other very influential aspects to inkjet printing that effect the perception of resolution beyond how many locations a printer can put dots within an inch. One of the biggest is the addition of light cyan and light magenta to the conventional cyan, magenta, yellow, and black inks. These light inks do not add to the color gamut as some sales people will have you believe. What they really do is hide the dots from your eye in lighter colors. Since the inks are a lighter color they don&#8217;t contrast the white background as much as the dark cyan and magenta inks. This way you perceive the print to be a higher resolution that it really is. All of our printers have at least 6 color inksets that include light cyan and light magenta. The fine art printer adds several shades of black (or more precisely: greys) as well as red and blue inks.</p>
<div id="attachment_362" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/res-dots.jpg" rel="lightbox[354]" title="resolution in dots"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-362" title="resolution in dots" src="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/res-dots-150x150.jpg" alt="resolution in dots" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">resolution in dots</p></div>
<p>All of this techno speak is trying to get to one fundamental truth. For inkjet printing, digital image resolution and print resolution have no relationship whatsoever. You could have 1000 ppi image and have it print at 300 dpi and it would look grainy because of the low print resolution. You could have a 10 ppi digital image and print it at 1000000 dpi, the jaggy pixels would be printed very cleanly, but it would still be low resolution.</p>
<p>So let&#8217;s get to some practical guidelines. Generally speaking you need 100-200 PIXELS per inch in your digital images to get a nice clean print from our systems. As the dimensions of the print get larger and are viewed from further away, the needs for pixel resolution drop off a cliff. Common image resolution for vehicle wraps is 70-100 ppi. Image resolution for  a large banner may be as low as 20 or 30 ppi if it will be hung on the side of a building and viewed from 10+ feet away. The answer to my customer&#8217;s question is 70-100 ppi for the vehicle wrap he was calling about. This would save him hundreds of megabytes or possible gigabytes in file size and still get a clean print.</p>
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<p class="p2"><span class="s1"><strong>print dimension</strong></span></p>
</td>
<td class="td1" valign="top">
<p class="p2"><span class="s1"><strong>viewing distance</strong></span></p>
</td>
<td class="td1" valign="top">
<p class="p2"><span class="s1"><strong>appropriate ppi</strong></span></p>
</td>
<td class="td1" valign="top">
<p class="p2"><span class="s1"><strong>file size (rgb)</strong></span></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">18&#215;24</span></p>
</td>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">2-3 feet</span></p>
</td>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">150-200ppi</span></p>
</td>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">28 mb</span></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">24&#215;36</span></p>
</td>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">3-5 feet</span></p>
</td>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">150 ppi</span></p>
</td>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">56 mb</span></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">36&#215;48</span></p>
</td>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">4-6 feet</span></p>
</td>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">125 ppi</span></p>
</td>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">78 mb</span></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">48&#215;72</span></p>
</td>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">6-10 feet</span></p>
</td>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">100 ppi</span></p>
</td>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">99 mb</span></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">60&#215;96</span></p>
</td>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">10+ feet</span></p>
</td>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">75 ppi</span></p>
</td>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">93 mb</span></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">60&#215;144</span></p>
</td>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">15+ feet</span></p>
</td>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">50 ppi</span></p>
</td>
<td class="td2" valign="top">
<p class="p3"><span class="s1">62 mb</span></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p class="p1">Notice how you really don&#8217;t (usually) need a huge file size to get great results. Notice how there is no reference to the print resolution. That&#8217;s because we&#8217;ll always print as high a resolution as is needed and we just need to make sure your images have the appropriate pixel resolution.</p>
<p class="p1">Of course there are exceptions to these guidelines. When in doubt, call us. We&#8217;re always eager to make sure you get the best possible results for your job.</p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1"> </span></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Boulevard and Street Banners</title>
		<link>http://pacificprintworks.com/banners/boulevard-and-street-banners/</link>
		<comments>http://pacificprintworks.com/banners/boulevard-and-street-banners/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Mar 2010 03:29:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Morgan Cox</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Banners]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pacificprintworks.com/?p=350</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p class="wp-caption-text">Boulevard Street Banner</p>
<p>Boulevard and street banners take a surprising amount of abuse. Banners suspended by brackets with horizontal poles are under almost constant tension and will fail if not built to take it.
We use a 16 or 18 ounce scrim banner with at 1000 denier. The weight gives an idea how heavy it is, the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_349" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/streetbanner_thumb.jpg" rel="lightbox[350]" title="Boulevard Street Banner"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-349" title="Boulevard Street Banner" src="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/streetbanner_thumb-150x150.jpg" alt="Boulevard Street Banner" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Boulevard Street Banner</p></div>
<p>Boulevard and street banners take a surprising amount of abuse. Banners suspended by brackets with horizontal poles are under almost constant tension and will fail if not built to take it.<br />
We use a 16 or 18 ounce scrim banner with at 1000 denier. The weight gives an idea how heavy it is, the denier expresses tear and tensile strength. As a point of comparison, cheap 13oz scrim banner usually has 500 or 750 denier.<br />
Boulevard banners typically have stitched pockets and are printed on both sides of a single piece of material. Banners that are stretched across the street are finished according to city specs or the hanging hardware used to suspend the banner.</p>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>File Transfers</title>
		<link>http://pacificprintworks.com/file-preparation-tips/file-transfers/</link>
		<comments>http://pacificprintworks.com/file-preparation-tips/file-transfers/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 22 Mar 2010 16:52:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Morgan Cox</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[File Preparation Tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pacificprintworks.com/?p=335</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Don&#8217;t sweat the file transfer! Simply upload it through this website. No need for fussy complicated FTP. No need to battle your corporate file wall. No need to be worried your file may be too big to go through email.</p>
<p>Plus, you get to take advantage of the opportunity to give all the necessary specifications for us [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Don&#8217;t sweat the file transfer! Simply upload it through this website. No need for fussy complicated FTP. No need to battle your corporate file wall. No need to be worried your file may be too big to go through email.</p>
<p>Plus, you get to take advantage of the opportunity to give all the necessary specifications for us to get your print right. Providing this information speeds up the process for both of us and minimizes simple communication mistakes and omissions.</p>
<p>Start your upload now by <a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/?page_id=180">clicking here</a>.</p>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Proofs</title>
		<link>http://pacificprintworks.com/file-preparation-tips/proofs/</link>
		<comments>http://pacificprintworks.com/file-preparation-tips/proofs/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 22 Mar 2010 16:45:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Morgan Cox</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[File Preparation Tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pacificprintworks.com/?p=333</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>There are so many material options to choose from, and each has its own unique effect on the final print that proofs are the only way to be absolutely certain how your finished print with look.</p>
<p>We strongly encourage proofs when your job has to be as expected. We offer proofs off our calibrated and profiled dedicated [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>There are so many material options to choose from, and each has its own unique effect on the final print that proofs are the only way to be absolutely certain how your finished print with look.</p>
<p>We strongly encourage proofs when your job has to be as expected. We offer proofs off our calibrated and profiled dedicated proofing system. These are an inexpensive option that allow you to see that your file is as expected in terms of layout and to a large degree &#8211; color. When the proof has to be 100% precise, request a proof on the actual material that will be used for your job. This will give the full effect the material has on the final print. Surface texture, gloss vs. matte, and the material&#8217;s unique color of white, all effect the results.</p>
<p>For most jobs, you can rely on our day to day high quality and completely color managed large format print systems to give you the best prints you can get. But to be sure your expectations match what is going to happen on a particular material, proofs are a necessity.</p>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Color Formats</title>
		<link>http://pacificprintworks.com/file-preparation-tips/color-formats/</link>
		<comments>http://pacificprintworks.com/file-preparation-tips/color-formats/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 22 Mar 2010 16:38:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Morgan Cox</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[File Preparation Tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pacificprintworks.com/?p=329</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[</p>
<p class="wp-caption-text">Color gamut comparisons: 13oz Scrim = BLACK, SWOP CMYK = red, sRGB = purple</p>
<p>We accept RGB, CMYK, or vector files with Pantone named color equally well. Unlike many large format printers, we work best with Pantone colors that are not converted to RGB or CMYK, but instead are left as the named Pantone colors. This [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2><span style="font-weight: normal; font-size: 13px;"></p>
<div id="attachment_47" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/gamuts_scrim_banner.jpg" rel="lightbox[329]" title="Scrim banner color gamut comparison"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-47" title="Scrim banner color gamut comparison" src="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/gamuts_scrim_banner-150x150.jpg" alt="Scrim banner color gamut comparison" width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Color gamut comparisons: 13oz Scrim = BLACK, SWOP CMYK = red, sRGB = purple</p></div>
<p>We accept RGB, CMYK, or vector files with Pantone named color equally well. Unlike many large format printers, we work best with Pantone colors that are not converted to RGB or CMYK, but instead are left as the named Pantone colors. This is only practical in vector files. Raster based files automatically convert named Pantone colors to the format (RGB or CMYK)  of the file.</p>
<p></span></h2>
<p>If you&#8217;re in the process of creating a file, RGB and or Pantone named colors are the best choices. These will allow you to take greatest advantage of the color gamut our systems have to offer. If you like to work in an RGB space other than sRGB, let us know so we&#8217;re sure to handle your job correctly. At the very least, be sure your Working Space is embedding in your files since we check for this in every preflight. If there is no embedded profile, we&#8217;ll assume it is either sRGB or US Web Coated SWOP CMYK.</p>
<p>If the file already exists as CMYK, do not convert it to RGB. It is better left alone in the interest of minimizing the number of color conversions done in the overall workflow. Plus, to realize the potential benefit of RGB, the file must be created as RGB. Converting CMYK to RGB does not improve the color performance.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Acceptable File Types</title>
		<link>http://pacificprintworks.com/file-preparation-tips/acceptable-file-types/</link>
		<comments>http://pacificprintworks.com/file-preparation-tips/acceptable-file-types/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 22 Mar 2010 16:37:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Morgan Cox</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[File Preparation Tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pacificprintworks.com/?p=321</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
File Types we accept&#8230;

TIFF &#8211; with LZW compression on
PDF &#8211; with fonts outlined or embedded
EPS &#8211; with fonts outlined
JPEG &#8211; saved to maximum quality/minimum compression

<p>If at all possible, design and submit your files at 100% scale. There is no advantage to designing at a smaller dimension and scaling at some later step in the process. Sooner or [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2><a href="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/file-types.jpg" rel="lightbox[321]" title="Approved file types - EPS, PDF, TIFF, JPEG"><img class="alignright size-full wp-image-324" title="Approved file types - EPS, PDF, TIFF, JPEG" src="http://pacificprintworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/file-types.jpg" alt="Approved file types - EPS, PDF, TIFF, JPEG" width="177" height="170" /></a></h2>
<h3>File Types we accept&#8230;</h3>
<ul>
<li>TIFF &#8211; with LZW compression on</li>
<li>PDF &#8211; with fonts outlined or embedded</li>
<li>EPS &#8211; with fonts outlined</li>
<li>JPEG &#8211; saved to maximum quality/minimum compression</li>
</ul>
<p>If at all possible, design and submit your files at 100% scale. There is no advantage to designing at a smaller dimension and scaling at some later step in the process. Sooner or later you&#8217;re going to end up at 100%. Either the data and resolution are there or they are not.  Designing and submitting files that are less than 100% scale only creates another opportunity for confusion and miscommunication.</p>
<p>When working with EPS and PDF files, it is always safest to convert fonts to outlines. EPS files are not able to embed fonts, PDF files are able. When saving PDF files, use a preset configuration like High Quality Print, X3a or X1a. These will not compress or downsample images in your designs.</p>
<p>TIFF is always preferred over JPEG. But JPEG is not necessarily evil, it is all a matter of how it is used. As long as you stick with the highest quality (minimum compression) JPEG setting when saving, your image will be ok. Beware that JPEG compression can damage an image much worse than not having enough pixels if excess compression is applied. The sneaky part with JPEG is the compression may be applied without you being aware. Be sure your digital camera is set to not only take the highest resolution it is capable of, but the lowest compression as well. To ensure you&#8217;re not compressing when taking a digital camera pic, use TIFF instead of JPEG if you camera will allow it. In general, stay away from RAW format unless you really know what you&#8217;re doing with the process. I&#8217;ve seen many well intentioned photographers destroy images with the RAW filter when simply taking a proper picture and going through TIFF would have provided a much better result.</p>
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